If there’s a single ingredient required to get better at surfing, it’s time. Time to practice. To paddle out. To pop to your feet. To fall. To try again. To make the drop and fly down the line. Time, ...
Barefoot, with a surfboard under my arm, I stand on the shoreline. I’m waiting for a break between sets. When it comes—the sea lying flat for a moment, as if between breaths—I launch, paddling out ...
SANTA CRUZ — When room ran out in his car, Bob “Doc” Scott bought a 15-seat bus and told all the young Santa Cruz surfing “groms” he could find to pile in. But they weren’t headed to campus. Related ...
A memorial paddle out in honor of a surfing legend and waterman was appropriately named “The Last Ride with Uncle Clyde Aikau.” The Aikau family had delivered an open invitation to anyone and everyone ...
SANTA CRUZ — When room ran out in his car, Bob “Doc” Scott bought a 15-seat bus and told all the young Santa Cruz surfing “groms” he could find to pile in. But they weren’t headed to campus. The local ...