Awaji Island is the largest island in the Seto Inland Sea. From ancient times, Awaji has been known as "Japan's Foodstore," and local fish have, down the years, been presented to the Imperial Court.

The 70km Shimanami Kaido, webbed with fishing harbours, hillside citrus orchards and historic shrines, is often regarded as one of the world's most incredible bike journeys. As I cycled along the ...