When I think of mussels (the shellfish, not the gym-rat kind), I think of the ocean. Seagulls wheeling overhead, the gross but nostalgic smell of seaweed, maybe of wine and butter on a Friday summer ...

Now in its third year, the effort to rid Idaho’s Snake River of invasive quagga mussels is a near 24/7 operation taking place both on the water and in a nearby laboratory. Since Sept. 30, a team of ...