Welcome to Flashback Friday, a feature that runs Fridays on Kansas.com and Dining with Denise. It’s designed to take diners back in time to revisit restaurants that they once loved but that now live ...

Damon Breland, 43, stands aside in the doorway of Smitty’s Super Service Station, a former country convenience store that has been in his family for generations, and pulls open a heavy blue curtain.